Evil Robot EVR-C30....and finally....Up-Dated....

Sorry to everyone that's moaned....it's been ages since my last post....I had wanted to do some vids for this post before I posted it....Summer and doin stuff...you know how it is....I will add the vids as soon as I get round to doing them....Honest....

So I've had my Evil Robot EVR-C30 for a bit now...I still don't like the footswitch (F/S)....I know it's meant to look retro like the amp it's self....but it's nasty and way to big to fit on my pedal board and in my view not up to gigging and that is after all what this amp is all about....Your first tube amp for your first band swaray....The amp itself is built as good as anything with the vinyl covering applied expertly....No flaky seems coming unstuck....The chunky handle is a nice touch....I really....really like the black stove enamel paint on the chassis....very classy....It would have been nice if the front name plate was the same black stove enamel....but I guess the matt black finish looks better on stage.... 

Apart from the F/S the only cost saving measure I can see is the metal back plate that caries the ohm selector switch and F/S input....it's a flat plate that is secured from the back and would have looked so much better if they had kept the one from the prototype amp....it looks a bit ugly....oh and the 3 pin power cable input is under the back cover sandwiched between the transformers making it nearly impossible to plug back in without removing the back cover....Why not a hard-wired power cable....it would have been better and saved a few penny’s....

It's a class A amp so it gets hot and the tiny fan in the back helps to cool things down....but could be better....One of the first things I did was make up a box to channel cool air more directly over the tubes....very easy to do and works 100 times better....

The speaker in the C30 is specially designed to sound like the very worn in speaker in Phil X's Magnatone Tonemaster that the Evil Robot's are all based on....Apparently the speaker in Phil's amp could fail at any moment and John Kasha went to great lengths to match the tone of this nearly dead speaker.... The amp has a speaker out so that it can be used with a extension cabinet and act as a head unit....

The Vibrato and Loop is one or the other....not both....the Vibrato is very nice....but I'm going to ignore it as I use the tube buffered loop constantly for my delays and reverb....The loop seems to be very transparent and does what its supposed to do perfectly....

The High and Low inputs are awesome and I have been using them more than switching between the A and B channels....If they could be switched via the footswitch together with the channels the amp would be as near to perfect as you could ask for....

The 3-Way Tone Switch together with the Tone Control is again all you need if your playing live with a band....The C30's tone is very in your face and up front sounding....In the Bright position you get a small volume boost that adds some grit which is nice....things never get spiky or harsh....But for home use I have to admit I would prefer a 3 band “bass, middle, treble” EQ.... Don't get me wrong I'm not saying the EQ is the Evil Robot's achilles' heel....but because the C30 will work with so many different tubes and is therefor capable of so many different tones it does scream out for a 3 way tone control....I use a modded Boss GE-7 in the loop that let me tweak the tone....nothing stupidly boosted....just shaped more to my liking....

The Loudness A and B works by adding an extra tube into the channel....giving you a nice kick between the two channels....This works really well together with the High and Low inputs....giving you the same tone but one is hotter than the other....It's all you need and never leaves you wanting more....

I have to admit when I first played through the amp I said to myself....”OMG....THIS IS SHIT....” It sounded raw and not the amazing sounding tone machine that I was expecting....I put this down to the very nasty looking tubes that the amp came with....I changed the 6V6's for 6L6's then for EL34's and was again very unimpressed....but when I changed the pre amp tubes for 12AU7's the C30 came alive for me....

If I was Fretted Americana, I would ship the amps without tubes....then leave it up to the dealers to show how the amp can sound with different tubes....or at least ship the amps with AU7's instead of AX7's....

When I bought the C30 I knew I wanted it to have EL34's for a British rock tone....I was completely off....I have now gone for 6L6's and ended up with THE best Fender amp....Fender has “never” made....With 6L6's it's tone is unmistakeably a US Pete Townsend rock tone and together with the 12AU7's you get a very passable John Mayer Strat tone using the Low input....with EL34's your in British Jimi Page rock amp territory....I was lucky that I have a large box of old tubes that I could play around with....If your just starting out it could get very expensive to find the tone your happiest with....or you could never find your tone and sell the amp before you find out just how good the C30 is....

When you first get the amp....it's in Phil X mode....it's loud, brash and awesome....Then you plug into it....and your not loud, brash and awesome....you are in-fact a worst guitarist than even YOU thought you were....Loaded with AU7's instead of AX7's....the amp becomes more forgiving of the less talented....it still gets dirty as you crank the gain and takes boost pedals beautifully....But I do think that 70% of people who try the amp would prefer the “calmed the fuck down” 12AU7 version.

******************************

The tubes I'm now using in my Evil Robot are....

V1 - 12AU7

V2 - 12AX7

These are the Channel Tubes....V1 drives Loudness B....V2 then gets added to V1 to drive the Loudness A into giving more gain....

V3 - 12AU7

This is the tube that the Vibrato runs through....A big Thank You goes out to Guillaume Clapeau for this next bit....The Vibrato doesn't work with a 12AX7....it needs a 12AU7....I don't use the Vibrato so have to admit to mising that....I do recall first getting the amp with just one 12AU7 and I assumed it was from the loop after I had messed with the tubes....I usually note things like that down for future reference....Again....Thanks to Guillaume for getting in touch and querying this....I had it down as a 12AX7....Never Trust the Internet....

V4 - 12AU7

This is the tube for the FX Loop....If you use the Loop you need to watch the volumes of any Delay and Reverb pedals you use as these need to be set up to not effect the amps volume....Too Low and you will reduce the amps overall volume....Too High and you will drive the Phase Inverter tube giving you more power tube break up but also more compression when the amp gets loud....You need to keep the loop at unity gain....

V5 - 12AX7

This is the Phase Inverter tube....This tube drives your Power Amp Tubes and is responsible for your Power Amp Distortion....If you want to know more about Phase Inverters read this article....HERE....over at Guitar Amplifier Blueprinting . com....

My Power Tubes are 6L6's for a more US tone....

V1 and V2 are both Tung-Sol's....All other tubes are JJ's....

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Because of the amp's up front tone....being able to scoop the mids with a 3 band EQ would maybe tame the feeling of nowhere to hide when your playing the amp....”I could be talking crap”....but in Phil X mode the amp was too much for my heavy handed....sloppy playing “style”....The in your face nature of the C30....over time will be a good thing as I'm going to have to become a better player....

I'm not saying that the Evil Robot is the best amp in the world....If your about to buy a Marshall because you want to sound like Angus Young or a Fender because you want that Fender twang....then the Evil Robot is not for you....But the tones you can get with the C30 are some of the best rock guitar tones ever....and that alone makes the C30 worth the asking price....But you also get an amp that sounds and feels like an expensive hand wired tube amp....and I wasn't expecting that from what is after all a cheap circuit board amp....Even at quiet bedroom levels it never looses the dynamics’s and feeling of a loud tube amp....Your playing jumps out of this amp....You have sustain in your fingers and you find out that you are in-fact a better player than you thought you were.... and in the process that puts a big smile on your face....

As yet I have not had a chance to play the C30 properly LIVE....but as it is set up now....this is without a doubt the best sounding amp I have ever owned....It's a ballsy sounding amp that managers to stay sounding ballsy as you drop the volume....”I have never played so quietly and yet still been happy with my tone”....It has the feel and dynamics’s of a hand wired amp three times it's price....The Fender Hot Rod Deluxe is a good amp but it ain't a Evil Robot....the 65 Deluxe Reverb is a better amp and again it ain't no Evil Robot....

Fender....Marshall....Blackstar....ETC....are all going to have to drop their prices or redesign some of their amps because the Evil Robot EVR-C30....has no right being this good....But it is....k.j.

Problem With George L's Cables....

I had a problem with some of my George L's cables awhile back....the nickle plating had began to come away from some of the solderless plugs....

I sent them off an email....

"Hi George L, I have just been moving my main pedalboard around trying to find a noisy cable that had started up and found that the nickel plating has started to come off some of your .155 plugs, I’ve found 6 so far. I don’t know how long I’ve had them but I’m getting worried, I must have 30 or so plugs on my main board and 40 on my other 2 smaller boards. Your Plugs are meant to be the best and as so are not cheap, you don’t expect them to only last a couple of years. 6 plugs, that’s £60 that I’m going to have to bin and I’m going to have to look inside all my pedals and clean any bits out. My fingers are cut to ribbons the bits coming off are like razorblades. I’m not happy. I’ve put some photos for you on my photobucket page so you can see for yourselfs. Don’t worry nobody looks at my page, as soon as you have seen them I’ll take them down, I’m not an idiot trying it on, but I’m not happy."

They replied....

"I am sorry that you are having problems with the plating. After some normal wear and tear it is possible for the plating to come off. My suggestion would be to use the brass plugs. We do have a lifetime warranty on the plugs. Please let me know where you purchased them. I will try to do whatever I can to make you happy. Thanks, Sandy"

And then....

"I forwarded your  last email to Moonphase and David would like to discuss this with you to help resolve the matter. Could you please give me a phone number where he can contact you? He requested that I ask you for the number. Looking forward to hearing from you. Sandy"


Here in the UK George L's are distributed by Moonphase Limited and David Cartwright (of Moonphase) was only too happy to swop the damaged plugs for new ones....

So this morning I'm making up a new board and swopping pedals and guess what....the nickle coating is coming off some more of the plugs....George L's web site now say's nothing about a Lifetime Guarantee and Moonphase now states...."a 2-year guarantee covering defects".

The thing is....Pedalboard plugs never get the same amount of "ABUSE" as regular guitar cables and I have cables that are easily 15 "or more" years old....have been plugged in and out hundreds if not thousands of times and I have never had a problem like this before.... ....the nickle has not worn away to nothing....its flaked off and is now lurking inside some off my pedals....AWESOME....has this been a bad batch or happening too many times to keep the lifetime warranty....I would have thought a lifetime is a minimum of 10 years for a cable plug...and then to come loose and fall apart....not to have to nickle peel off....

LAVA Cables looks like my next purchase....I don't know why I ever took up the guitar....nothing is ever cheap....k.j.

"I think I should have got a motorbike....or an addiction to tattoos like some of my other friends...."

p.s....Going through all my plugs....I have 4 more that have started to shed their plating....that makes 10 in all....that makes me think they all must be from the same batch and most likely to be the starter kit I bought first....Looking through old photos I got my first George L's the summer of 2008 and first had the shedding in 2010....Question is do I buy a Lava Kit "I need 14 plugs for my mini board"....then suck it up and buy a few more GL's when my GigRig G2 turns up and hope I don't get anymore shedding....It does makes sense to keep using the GL's....Grudgingly.... k.j.

Fender System One Tremolo....

The Fender Contemporary Strats and Teles were the first Fender Japan models to be exported as Fender models. The previous Fender Japan models exported from Japan were all Fender Squier's. The Fender Contemporary models were manufactured from 1984 to 1987 by FujiGen Gakki and these guitars were designed to be Super Strats with humbucking pickups and Floyd Rose like tremolos made by Schaller. There was a lower priced Fender Contemporary Squier model produced as well. The Fender Contemporary Stratocaster and Telecaster models were part of the Fender Japan E series model range.

My favorite guitar for 25 years

My very first guitar, bought used in 1988

When CBS sold Fender to its current owners in 1984 minus the Fullerton California plant, there was a transitional period from 1985 to 1987 where a new factory was being built in Corona, California. During that time, parts and bodies were shipped to Japan for assembly. USA production was limited for 3 years.

The Project

Finally Fender started to realize in the late 80's that these guitars and basses were the same if not better than the US guitars and basses made in California, they were discontinued and manufacturing stopped all together in the early 90's.  These Made in Japan guitars really do play better and sweeter and are just as good if not better than the USA models of the same era....FACT.

My Fender System One Stratocaster Project....I had bought the red sparkle Strat a while back from ebay and had just not got round to starting it....It was in very good condition for it's age with the System One tremolo made by "Schaller of Germany" showing hardly any signs of ware....

It had a few parts missing....The guy I got it off wanted £900 for it when he first put it on ebay...."pissed"....I think I paid £170 including postage in the end with amazing sniping skills...."he was not happy"....took him ages to post it and I think he was hopping I would accept a refund...."remember kids....making a winning bid on ebay is a legally binding agreement for both parties"....suck it up bitches....

The original tremolo arm was missing....two intonation screws and two of the three steel string pads in the string lock were also missing. All the parts are readily available from ebay but you can obtain genuine parts from Kahler Parts or Wammi World....both run by John Cecchini....always a pleasure to deal with and when on the one time he did send the wrong part....the replacement turned up in less than a week and considering it was coming from the US of A, was amazing...."Big, BIG Thank You John....

The Schaller System One tremolo, like a Floyd Rose just will not work without the stringlock....

The tremolo was stripped down to bits, cleaned and put back together with beeswax cream....

considering its age the tremolo look barely used

The site that has the most information on the System One Tremolo and Fender in general is StratConnection....PapaTom knows his stuff when it comes to Fender Made in Japan....His site is full of useful information and he sell's some truly wonderful vintage guitars....his used System One Tremolos and Parts are also first class and compared to ebay show hardly any signs of use considering the age of the System One stuff....Then again if you have a System One Fender you will probably already know about StratConnection....PapaTom pretty much has the whole internet to himself with the hard to find new and used parts....

Tele fitted with Bare Knuckle VHII

This Made in Japan Strat dates from 1985/86....The Tele is one of the first Made in Japan Fenders in 1984.... The body of the Strat is going to be filled, re-routed "H/S/H" and re-finished in reliced "off white"....but that could change to "surf green"....k.j.


http://www.wammiworld.com/
"the first place to look for help and parts"

http://www.stratconnection.com/
"never found Papa Tom be of any help what-so-ever....and his prices are ridiculous....lol" 

http://schaller-electronic.com/hp121090/Startseite.htm

https://www.kahlerusa.com/

Evil Robot....100% functioning....and back on line....

The rather cheap looking footswitch that comes with the EVR-C30 is actually on the inside very well put together....

All the solder joints were perfectly done....

I contacted John Kasha who gave me a few things to look for, everything checked out OK and the problem with my footswitch was a bad switch....

I just replaced the bad switch with one that I pulled out of a old Marshall footswitch I had and the Evil Robot is back up and working perfectly....no point in sending it back to Andertons....cheaper and faster to sort it out myself....funny thing is that I will probably stop using the footswitch altogether....or maybe mod another one up to work a little better...?....WTF....k.j.

NASA....We Have a Problem....

The footswitch has stopped working....it's stuck on channel A....so the cheapness is more than skin deep....I think Andertons are going to love me....

The other thing is when they say it gets hot....they mean HOT....but the little fan in this Class A amp is doing nothing....time for a mod I think....

I have turned the fan round, so instead of sucking air out of the combo....it's blowing air in.....

I have made up a temporary air duct out of card to channel the flow of air up and over the tubes to  remove the heat better....it has worked really well....I had the amp on full blast today for about 6 hours and the amp chassis got nothing worse than warm....yesterday the chassis was alarmingly hot only after a couple of hours of being on....

Just as soon I get the air duct design right I'll make one out of wood, paint it matt black and post up the plans for it here if anybody wants it....

So far the Evil Robot sounds great....the Vibrato is really sweet sounding....and in 30watt mode with 4 6V6 tubes installed, this amp is loud....real F**king LOUD....more to come....k.j.

2nd Coming....

Evil Robot number 2 is here....BIG Thank You to Karis Chandler from Andertons for looking after me....

no holes in this box....always a good sign....

and it works....thank god for that....here at Bollocks Towers, we very nearly gave up on this amp, got a refund and put a deposit on a GigRig G2....we like GigRig stuff....

who else thinks that this has to be the cheapest looking footswitch in the world....ever....but throwing caution to the wind we asked for a replacement amp and put a deposit down on a G2 as well....

 

the G2 should be with us sometime in August....we will be putting the Evil Robot under the microscope, posting some vids and posting what we all think of it over the next couple of weeks....k.j.

whence cometh the evil....

Epicurus wanted to know....Andertons....

 

The big day is upon us....

well this ain't looking good....

the angel smite thee....

The replacement from Andertons should arrive soon and then we shall see if it's really as good as everybody says it is....I'm going to be honest....the foot-switch is the cheapest looking thing I have ever seen, not the metal one as in the vids....the tubes are no name nasty looking things....but the biggest disappointment is that there is no Phil X plaque on the back....

no little plaque on the back....my faith in all things good and holy is shattered....I'm guttered....really, really F*&%ing guttered....k.j.

Talking tubes....

State of the Art 50s Technology

In the never ending search for more tone the things that we change the least are our tubes. Most of us never giving them a second thought, a blown tube is replaced with the same make and model that the amp came with....easy....but the difference between tubes can be as stark as night and day....sort of....

Changing Pre Amp and Power Amp Tubes is never going to make a Fender amp sound like a Marshall or visa versa but they can make your amp sound and play more to your liking....just remember that 90% of how your amp sounds is in its design, not it's tubes.

12AX7 - ECC83

There are lots of big names in the tube world, Sovtek, Electro-Harmonix, JJ Electronic, Tung-Sol, but not all manufacture tubes. GT and Ruby don't make their own tubes, they buy in and re-brand tubes with their own logo. GT have recently been bought by Fender who only use GT tubes in their amps, a good way of keeping your amp sounding it's best is to use nothing but GT tubes....But talk to a lot of Fender amp owners and Tung-Sol tubes seem to be the preferred choice.

The GT Guess Who Hall of Shame

Tung-Sol have masses of musicality, I'd call them tight and airy. Electro Harmonix are very similar to Tung-Sol but break up sooner for better blues and rock tones. JJ's on the other hand are huge in the bass department with  hard mids and clean highs, great for Marshalls and Humbuckers. I have a pair of GT 7025 that were the best tubes I had ever played but they don’t sell them any more. They still sell a 7025 but it's not the same long plate version and they don’t sound the same.

Tube Names - Gain Factors

From the above chart you can see the gain values of each tube and that a 12AX7 “US Name” is the same tube as a ECC83 “European Name”. I have always thought the euro names were misleading in that the ECC81 has more gain than a ECC82, so where does the ECC83 get it's name, it should be a ECC80?. I have put the 5751 in the 12AX7 line as its very closely related to a AX7, it's more closely related to a AX7 than it is to a 12AT7 or a 12AU7.

Pre Amp Tubes

JJ ECC803 - Slovakian - a very high powered 12AX7 tube, extra bite and shimmer in the high frequencies.

Tung-Sol 12AX7 - Russian - very powerful, ultra low noise. tight, punchy, articulate, a very musical tube.

Electro Harmonix - 12AX7 - Russian - easy break up, aggressive, very low noise. probably the best tube in the world and one of the cheapest.

JJ 5751 – Slovakian – low powered 12AX7, very low noise. has bite and shimmer with a good low end.

Tung-Sol 12AU7 - Russian - smooth and balanced - low noise - musical tube.

JJ ECC82 - Slovakian - the lowest output tube you can get. In the pre amp it will reduce gain and give a warm, smooth and balanced EQ out put. 

Sovtek 12AX7-LPS - Russian - surprisingly smooth across the EQ response - great for gain but prone to micro-phonics in combo amps.

Glass Tubes of Power Perfection

Power Amp Tubes

6V6 Power Tubes have a vintage tone giving an even mix of lows, mids and highs. they have a lower power out put compared to 6L6's

6L6 Power Tubes have a very nice mix of tone. they sound tighter and warmer than 6V6's. a 5881 is basically a low power 6L6....20watt rather than 30watt. A KT66 has a smoother tone with tight lows.

EL34 Power Tubes have a harsher tone with more bass response than 6L6 or 6V6 tubes, more like a classic Marshall sound. a KT77 tight mids with more open highs than a EL34

KT88 Power Tubes similar to a smaller EL84 in the mids, but with more lows and highs for a modern Marshall sound.

Yellow Jackets tube converters allow EL84 power tubes to be used in place of 6L6, EL34, 6V6. EL84's have a lower power out put compared to EL34's but use a small 9 pin design rather than the 8 pin design of 6V6, 6L6, EL34 and KT tubes.

Changing Power Tubes....all 8 pin power tubes can be changed for any other 8 pin tube, "some tubes missing pins" but will involve re-baising of most guitar amps and should only be done by qualified technician.

My Egnater Renegade has a very modern sounding lead channel that I have lowered the gain on with the aid of a 12AU7 for a vintage Marshall, AC-DC tone. My clean channel, I have emphasized the US Fender tone with a JJ ECC803s for some extra grit in the top end.

The tubes that I have in the Renegade at the moment for home use are......
“Channel 1”
V1 - Tung-Sol 12AU7 "has a gain factor of 20%, this reducers the gain in both channels"
V2 - JJ ECC803S “for some dirt in the top end” (this is now a Tung-Sol 12AX7 - sounds better)
“Channel 2”
V3 - JJ ECC83S "12AX7" (this is now a JJ ECC82 - sounds better)
V4 - JJ ECC83S "12AX7"
“FX Loop”
V5 - JJ 5751 "low powered 12AX7, for giving the FX Loop a bit more headroom"
“Phase Inverter”
V6 - Tung-Sol 12AX7
"with these tubes Channel 1 is clean with a hint of break up when pushed, Channel 2 is very Vintage Rock sounding"

POWER TUBES
6V6's in the 6L6 side to reduce the volume a very small amount for a US Tone.
EL34's in the EL34 for the British Tone.
"the Renegade has 2 channel assignable Master Volumes, so I use the 2 MV to give the 6V6 tubes a boost to keep up with the EL34's"

The valves that I have in the Renegade for gig use are......
“Channel 1”
V1 - JJ ECC83S
V2 - JJ ECC803S “for some dirt in the top end”
“Channel 2”
V3 - JJ ECC83S "12AX7"
V4 - JJ ECC82 "12AU7" "to reduce the Egnater's Modern Gain Tone...."
“FX Loop”
V5 - JJ 5751 "low powered 12AX7, for giving the FX Loop a bit more headroom"
“Phase Inverter”
V6 - Tung-Sol 12AX7...."I also use a Tung-Sol 12AU7 to drop the power output through the floor for home use"

POWER TUBES
6L6's in the US Tone Side.
E34L's in the EL34 side for the British Tone.
"These tubes give a very tight powerful tone, Channel 2 has reduced gain to keep it sounding Rock not Metal. The 12AV7 in the PI position will help to get sustain and dynamics at a lower volume for home use."

Power Tube Distortion....the holy grail of tone....actually comes from the Phase Inverter tube breaking up. Fitting an 12AU7 tube will cut a amps rated power to about half....but a 100watt amp is not twice as loud as a 50watt amp, it's more like 100watt and 75watt and it's the same with valves. Fitting a 5751 in a 100watt amp will make it sound like a 90watt amp and fitting a ECC82 will make the 100watt amp sound more like 40watts....what the AU7 does is give you more sustain and playing dynamics at a lower volume. The AU7 will start to break up sooner than a AX7 would....your amp will still be loud....DRUM KIT LOUD.

GT 7025 - Tung-Sol 12AX7 - JJ ECC803S

A word of warning....

12AU7 and 12AT7 tubes have Plate Currents of about 1 milliamps where the 12AT7 and 12AU7 both have Plate currents of 10 milliamps and will draw more current. Modern high quality resistors will cope with extra heat but....not all amps are built to the same standard.

I contacted Bruce Egnater about using a AU7 in the PI position and this is what he said....

"You won't harm your amp by trying the 12AU7. The issue is that the AU7 draws more current. The Renegade uses 1 watt MF resistors in the critical locations. The 12AU7 will cause more voltage drop (more heat) on those resistors but should be just fine. The fact that the Renegade does not have a post phase inverter master and does have negative feedback in the poweramp, the audible change with the AU7 will probably be minimal and will not reduce the volume if that is your goal."

JJ ECC81 - Ruby 12AT7

The best way to evaluate what tubes will sound best for you is to buy a few and play and swop . Check forums to see what other users of your amp are playing through but remember that how you play will also have an effect, if you play heavy handed you will make a valve break up sooner than a softer player would.  I have found that some tubes don't play nice with other tubes, bottom end can simply drop away with some combinations of tubes.  12AT7/ECC81 tubes can be cold and un-musical when compared to the lower powered 12AU7/ECC82 in the same positions.



A good tip when you buy balanced tubes for the FX Loop or Phase Inverter....mark them with a red Sharpie marker pen....because once out of the box you'll never know which ones which.

Spot the Difference Competition

I think my amp does sound better for changing it's tubes for my heavy handed style of playing....but it has been a pain in the ass if I'm being honest....

I get my tubes from...."UK"
http://www.karltone.co.uk/
and
http://www.voc-rock-guitars.com/index.html

other links
http://www.thetubestore.com/
http://www.eurotubes.com/
http://www.cedist.com/tech_corner/yellow_jacket_tube_converter_technical_information
http://www.yellowjacketstc.com/more-information
http://www.cedist.com/tech_corner/12ax7_comparison_of_current_made_tubes
http://www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com/files/Phaseinverter.pdf


Again....hope this is of use to someone and yes this is a re-working of a past post....the first one was confusing or so I thought....lol....k.j.