Wednesday, 1 October 2014

Bjørn Riis....Lullabies in a Car Crash!....

Lullabies in a Car Crash!....Even sounds like post Wall Pink Floyd before you even hear it....



Bjørn Riis is releasing his first solo recording ‘Lullabies in a Car Crash’ on Karisma Records November 3rd 2014. The album is very much a personal statement, with lyrics dealing with fear of abandonment, alienation and loss. It’s also homage to many of Bjørn’s musical influences.


Bjørn is one of the founding members, the lead guitarist and main songwriter of the highly successful Norwegian band Airbag. Their three releases, ‘Identity’ (2009), ‘All Rights Removed’ (2011) and ‘The Greatest Show on Earth’ (2013), all on Karisma Records, have all received great reviews worldwide and all become favourites among fans all over the globe.
Bjørn has, together with Airbag, acquired a substantial live experience doing gigs as headliners, double bills, festivals and support, sharing stage with bands like Marillion, Saga, Spock’s Beard, Arena, Riverside, Gazpacho among others. Loving playing live Bjørn will be putting together a band for some exclusive live performances of ‘Lullabies in a Car Crash’ late 2014 early 2015.
In addition to playing and recording with Airbag, Bjørn is a highly respected guitarist within the guitar community on the Internet, where he has a huge fan base. His guitar page “Gilmourish.com” has become a centre for gear and music discussions online.
With a wide range of inspirations from artists like Pink Floyd, Porcupine Tree, No-Man to Black Sabbath, and musical styles from chill, electronica, art-rock to heavy metal, Bjørn have mixed all this into his music and have created his own style in writing and presenting music.
Although Bjørn as a guitarist have developed his own sound with a unique tone and his own technique over the years, the playing and tone are reminiscent of David Gilmour, Steven Rothery and Steven Wilson.
As a singer this is the first time he takes the lead, normally doing the backing vocals in Airbag. Although him doing vocals on his demos for the band is one of the reasons many people have been urging him to do this record. His singing style is in the area of the mellow vocals of Tim Bowness and Nick Drake…
The album ‘Lullabies in a Car Crash’ will be out on Karisma Records November 3rd 2014.


Also you have to check out his web site....bjornriis.com....He has done the same as his Airbag site and put up information about his Guitars and Solo Rig....You couldn't ask for anything more....k.j.




Saturday, 27 September 2014

All Tooled Up....

Quick run through of some new tools I've bought myself....


First up.... a proper neck support....why I have never bought myself one god only knows....This one is from Guitars and Woods in Portugal....holds the neck of your guitar rock steady for working on....a rolled up towel is fine for Fenders....but anything with an angled neck you need to make sure your not actually resting on the headstock....I did buy a support from Planet Waves a couple of years ago but never used it much due to the alarming amount of bending the thing did when pushing on it....it was more expensive than this lovely pace of birch as-well....


I've had a couple of other bits from Guitars and Woods and found them to be really quick with postage....always two days from placing the order....I've bought stuff from shops in this country that have taken longer....Give them a look....can not rate them enough....


Stupid one....but another must have....Bench Cookie's from Bench Dog Tools....They have a none slip surface on both sides and stop your guitar moving about....Used together with a good neck support and working on your guitars becomes a real pleasure....


They raise your guitar up from your bench enough to give you more room and help to avoid stupid accidents like resting your guitar on a rouge screw....Luckily did it on my beat up tele....if I had done it on any other of my guitars I would have been mightily pissed off....


Next up....Fret Rubbers...These things are awesome....I use "awesome" too much....but these really are awesome....For fret work they are brilliant....used with a steel fret guard they make your frets shine like new in no time....They are so easy to use that every change of strings I do....the rubbers come out too....0000 grade wire wool is best but it goes everywhere when your using the stuff and you'll need to mask off your guitar completely that it becomes a huge pain in the ass....I've used other things like Fret Dressing Sticks....but compared to the rubbers seem too brutal in use....The rubbers are perfect and will last years compared to sand paper....Both the Rubbers and the Cookies can be had from Advenced Guitar Centre here in the UK....a good shop for the hands on guitar DIY'er....Gareth from AGC is always friendly and ready to give advice....


For years and years I used a regular tooth pick to measure my set ups....resting on the fretboard for the high E....then resting on a fret for the low E gave me a good low action and it worked for me for years....all toothpicks are a standard size....


But then I got a Stew Mac Action Gauge....My most used and never leave home without tool....I use it so much I decided I needed a back up....The things are everywhere....like a rash across Amazon and Ebay and stupidly cheap too....as it turns out too cheap....


It looks the same....only when you use it you realize the cheap ones were ripped off by someone that has never picked up a guitar let alone set one up....You would think the bold black string hight bars would be easier to see than the small lines on the Stew Mac one....you would be wrong....


Worse than that is the fact that the Stew Mac has two 64ths measures on it's tool....the cheap one does not....You would think that this is not a big deal....But it becomes a huge deal when your setting up your pick up heights....you just turn the tool the other way round when you run out of space....


With the cheap knock off you will need to turn your guitar round...."Fucking Awesome"....The two 64ths measures on the Stew Mac is the difference between perfection and total uselessness....China....on this one you suck....sucked hugely....



So I then bought a back up Stew Mac tool....only they have made the new ones from thicker steel....not really a problem....until you drop it and it cuts through your guitar and carries on to Australia....

OK a slight over exaggeration....but why so thick....it weighs five times as much as my old one....and one day I will drop it onto a flamed maple top....Sods Law
....k.j.

http://guitarsandwoods.com
http://www.advancedguitarcentre.co.uk
http://www.stewmac.com

Neck Rest
Neck Rest US
Bench Dog Cookies
Fret Rubbers UK
Fret Erasers US
Action Gauge "check your guage has 2 sets of 64ths....avoide the ones that don't"


Friday, 12 September 2014

News From Planet Evil Robot....

John Kasha....the man behind Evil Robot has read My Dog's Bollocks....and has given it a big thumbs up....but....and there is always a but isn't there....I have got the tube layout wrong....


The tube layout should read....

V1 - Front End Driver

V2 - A Side - Second Driver

V2 - B Side - Phase Inverter

"remember a tube is made up of 2 identical sides....I have gone over this in another post"

V3 - Mixer

"I have no idea what the V3 - Mixer Tube does - I will tell you when I figure it out"

V4 - loop

V5 - Vibrato

Mr Kasha has also designed a Up-Grade Mod for the C30 Evil Robots that brings these amps up to US standard 30w amp specs....John say's the mod will give "major improvements to the electronics with extended tube life and a warmer edge"....this up-grade is going to be only available from Kasha Amps and I'm asuming will be more of a amp techs job than a plug and play sort of job....He also told me that a new line of Evil Robot amps are coming out soon....

"this is not me talking to Mr Kasha by the way"

Below is the emails of our conversation....read into it what you will....

John Kasha has left a new comment on your post "Evil Robot EVR-C30....and finally....Up-Dated...."

V6 is the Vibrato tube, V5 is the Effects loop... Nice writeup by the way...
I have a new mod for the C30 that changes it into more of the USA standard 30W version. If you want to know more, email me at jkasha@kashaamplifiers.com

***

Me - I thought V6 was the Phase Inverter….so would that make V3 the Loop and V4 the Vibrato….and not the other way round as I thought. Yes your Mod would be awesome and I will change the tube info on my blog as soon as you can confirm the layout….just goes to prove you can never trust the internet.
Do you think you’ll ever do another Evil Robot or was it an awesome one off.

***

John Kasha - The EVR has a unique phase inverter using one side of V2.  V1 front end driver, V2 second driver (1/2), V3 Mixer, V4 loop, V5 Vibrato.  A very unique design, that’s why it is so different...

Yes, I have a new version and a new line of amps coming out soon.  Stay tuned...

My C30 mod is killer with major improvements to the electronics with extended tube life and a warmer edge.

***

Me - Can I be a pain….V3 Mixer….What does the mixer do in the amp….then I can put it all in the blog and how do you get the new mod….is it only in the US from you and what is the cost.

***

John Kasha - that’s as far as I can elaborate on the design to the public.  There’s some secret sauce in this design which is my signature.  The vibrato is my design in the C30, not Magnatone.  I have a new Vibrato design coming out in the new line that is awesome.

The mod is only available through me.  I have worked out a special shipping price for International customers.

***

All this made my day....I can't wait to get my hands on the new Evil Robot Amps....I have had more fun with my C30 than any other amp I have....and when you do email John please mention my bollocks....k.j.


Kasha Amplifiers
jkasha@kashaamplifiers.com
 

Sunday, 29 June 2014

AsharpFretworks BiasPro VI....Awesome....

Awesome is the only word to describe the AsharpFretworks BiasPro VI....The black art that is amp biasing has now become easier than changing a set of strings....Again....Awesome....


The hard part of the biasing process in finding your tubes maximum power dissipation rating...."the tubes power output in watts to anybody that doesn't know"....and this is hardly top secret....practically all the online shops that sell tubes give this rating in the information about a particular tube if not in the title line of said tube....


I started off with my Evil Robot....a self biasing amp....?....over 3 days checked both the plate voltage and the cathode current with the BiasPro VI and each time got the same ratings....spot on....this told me two things....1. that the Evil Robot is rock steady and 2. that the BiasPro is also rock steady....any wavering in these ratings and something is not worth the money....


Onto the Egnater Renagade....This amp has biasing probe points on the back panel with a section in the manual on how to bias the amp yourself using any number of tubes...I had always thought that my Renagade sounded sweet....Channel 1 has 6V6's to give me a very retro tone and with a Tele gives a very passable Keef Tone and has Twang aplenty....Channel 2 has EL34's to give a very Egnater modern rock tone....tons of fun....can be a bit much....but dialed in with the 6V6's is just about a perfect do anything amp....the 6V6's taking the edge off the 80s metal tone....

"ignore the multimeter in the photos....its not needed....it's plugged into the Renegades test points"  
Using the BiasPro the 6V6's were too hot just enough to lessen their lifespan but not enough to sound too hot using the settings from the Egnater Manual....The EL34's on the other hand were well out....not hot enough....If you have read my other posts on the Renegade you'll know I have spent ages trying to find the perfect tubes for this amp and it would seem all I really needed was to bias the amp better....seems so stupidly simple now but if anybody was going to kill their amp trying to do a DIY Bias it would have been me....


Using the AsharpFretworks BiasPro VI is simplicity itself....all you need to know is your tubes power rating....then with the probes installed under the tubes in your amp the BiasPro gives you the two other values needed to bias your amp perfectly....One of the probes cables has a little box with a toggle switch on it and the switch gives you either the Plate Voltage or the Cathode Current and that's it....Different amps will have different PV's and not knowing your amps PV is going to make any bias setting a wild stab in the dark....you only need to be a little out and your risking bad tone at best and a tube letting go at worst....The CC is your amps bias setting....

Maximum Power Dissipation Rating
 JJ 6V6 S = 14watts
JJ E34L = 25watts
JJ 6L6 GC = 30watts
Tung-Sol 5881 = 23watts
TAD 6L6WGC-STR = 30watts

You then divide your amps Plate Voltage by your tubes power rating....this gives you the tubes maximum bias current....then you need to set your amp to 70% of this maximum current....

JJ E34L 25w/440 Plate Voltage = 56.8 maximum bias current
56.8 x 70 and hit the % button on a calculator gives you 39.7
39.7 being the magic number....it really is as easy as that....

"if you can not see this video in the email Blogger version....click HERE"

The BiasPro VI is designed and built in the US by Ken Koga of AsharpFretworks....they look like they are built to last....not at all like something your mate made for you....the cables that make up the probes are as good as anything I've bought over the years not cheep and flimsy looking...it comes with two probes but if you need or want 4 you can buy two more....The probes are the big eight pin versions....you can also get nine pin versions for EL84's....two more probes would have been best for my Marshalls....it will just take me longer to bias my JCM900 but I can live with that....The BiasPro will also show you how well matched your tubes are....but best of all....it works and works very well....is stupidly simple to use and for the money I think every guitarist with a tube amp needs one....My Egnater is an even better amp that I thought it was with a perfect biasing....now on to my other amps....cheers Ken your a star....this thing ROCKS....k.j.

Asharp Fretworks....
Buy from eBayUK....
Buy from eBayUS....

Sunday, 15 June 2014

Tube Biasing with the AsharpFretworks BiasPro VI....

I have always sent my amps to a tech to have them retubed and biased....its not only a pain but its also expensive....But then I got my Egnater Renegade that has biasing probe points at the back and I wondered why if biasing was so easy don't all amps come with easy biasing set up points....Biasing seems very straight forward with the right know how and a multimeter and yet also a bit of a black art....


I started looking for something that would make the biasing process easy but strangely nothing is really out there....TAD "Tube Amp Doctor" make a biasing kit that only gives you one part of the equation....the Cathode Current....but you then need a multi meter to read the Plate Voltage....whats the point of the TAD kit if you have your multi meter out to read the PV you may as well read the CC while your at it....????....


Then I found this on Ebay....The BiasPro VI by AsharpFretworks....This not only gives you the PV but also at the flick of a switch the CC....all you then need to know is the Maximum Power Dissipation of your new tubes....that's easy with the internet....a bit of math....a twist of a screwdriver and your done....that all seems easy enough....

The BiasPro looks well made....all the lethal electrical power strays in the tube connecters plugged into your amp and sends Milli-Volts instead of the Volts to the Readout Module....this can only be a good thing as its these Volts that could kill you....and the reason why I don't want to mess with a multimeter in the internals of my tube amps....


"you will not see this video if you have signed up for this blogs email edition"
This video is a different kit from mine but made by the same guy....Ken Koga in Minnesota, USA


ps....I'm in the UK....the BiasPro was £73.00....Postage from the US was £14.24....and I should have paid a VAT/Duty/Handling Fee of £22.80....


....but for some reason I was never asked to pay the charge...."maybe someone at the Royal Mail reads this Blog"....gotta love the Royal Mail....So all in the BiasPro work's out at £115 here in the UK....and that's still cheaper than the TAD biasing kit that only does half the job....it was posted by Ken in the US on the 6th and I got it on the 13th here in the UK....

 I'll have a play....bias some of my amps and tell you all how good the BiasPro VI is....k.j.


Tuesday, 20 May 2014

News Flash....20.5.2014....

Just spoken with Tony from tonymckenzie.com...."He's Alive"....the op went well and he has kept his sense of humor about it all....so he'll be taking something apart soon and giving us all a mighty fine in depth review....good to hear from you man....k.j.

*****************************************

Also the June Issue of Premier Guitar has just hit the freenet....get it HERE....k.j.

Tuesday, 13 May 2014

New Telecaster Bridge....Relic Blend in....

This Fender Telecaster was bought damaged about 10 years ago....nasty crack in the body....there was no way of repairing the crack invisibly so the best thing was to hide the crack with some subtle relicing....Yeah Babee....


It has Gibson Wiring in the controls....Gibson wiring if you don't know is a bit wired....the volume and tone controls interact with each other....the volume rolls off the highs as-well as volume but never turns down the volume to nothing....the tone....turns up the volume together as-well as adding highs or taking away....now this sounds like a mess but in playing it works really well....you set up a sweet spot with both controls....then when you need a boost....crank up the tone control to push your amp into working more....its kinda like an on-board overdrive switch....


The guitar plays really well but it has never sounded like a Telecaster....At just over 8lbs it's quite a monster and everybody thinks that its this weight that is dragging its voice down....It came with no pick ups so we tried Fender Noiseless....then a set of Mexicans....Bare Knuckle Country Boy....then a set of Bare Knuckle Piledrivers that were too much....We contacted Tim Mills who told us to send them back and he would re-wind them as Blackguards as he felt they would work better with the body weight....it now sounds like a P90 Les Paul and immediately warms to whoever is playing it but very quickly leaves you expecting more somehow...."IT NEEDS TWANG"


The KTS Titanium saddles were a wild stab in the dark and considering the cost of the things frustratingly made no difference to the lack of twang....Reading that Billy Gibbons prefers aluminum saddles on his teles I had to find some....they turned out to be just what the Doctor ordered to put some twang in this guitar....but this now left me needing a new bridge....


The original thin crappy ash tray bridge Fender have always used has an all to common problem.....because the Telecaster bridge is essentially part of the pickup....if the bridge starts to lift slightly at the front and doesn't sit flush on the body you get feedback as your amp gets dirty....the modern thicker bridge plates cut out the feedback issue and also transfer more sustain from the body into the strings.....I would have preferd to have kept the brass bridge but couldn't find any aluminum single saddles....just the double retro style ones....the new bridge would need relicing to match the patina of the guitars....finish....


The next three videos by Will Kelly will show you how to relic hardware better than I could do....This is the best and quickest way to age hardware....it is also the easiest way to destroy a piece of hardware....The marks on the bridge in the photo above are from a Dremel....I had never used one for relicing before and it didn't workout very good....luckily the saddles cover the marks....it's very easy to over do relicing....so go slowly....




The next step is a finishing touch that I like to do....Adding rust and stains to the hardware...What your going to need is....Salt....I like the aquatic salt from pet shops or you can use road side Rock Salt....Steel Wool....it's best to cut the Steel Wool into small pieces so it falls apart....and finally....Hydrogen Peroxide....the best stuff to get is the 35% grade....but after those nice chaps blew up the London Underground with Peroxide bombs it's a pain to get....If you can only find the baby cleaning 3% stuff you can add some Caustic Soda to the mix to heat things up....


As you can see from the photos the Hydrogen Peroxide....Salt and Steel Wool makes for a fun afternoon....The Steel Wool will rust in seconds....and as the mixture heats up and fizzes it will start the relicing process up again....Rust will form and rust stains will etch into the hardware's plating....


After an hour or two take your hardware out of the mixture and give it a good wash to see the  results....If you want more patina dip the hardware back into mixture to cover it with gunk....Place it on a paper towel and let it dry....When its dry add salt to taste and spray on some Hydrogen Peroxide to get the process going again....and again when it drys keep spraying on the Hydrogen Peroxide....this will keep the rust forming....



The last thing that I do is sand the bottom of the bridge to make sure it's as flat as possible....This will help it sit flush on the body and keep the feedback at bay....A piece of sandpaper on a flat hard surface....An off cut of wood sat in the bridge sides for even allover pressure and a steady circular motion will take all the lumps down to a nice flat polished surface....


I must give a warning about Hydrogen Peroxide....get it on your skin and it will eat into you....Wash it off straight away....It stings a bit and turns your skin flaky white....Islamic nutters call it Mother of Satan as it can accidentally ignite when mixed with cotton and is highly volatile....So use a bit of common sense....The mixture will heat up rapidly and the fumes are slightly noxious....What your making is a very crude etching solution....Adding steel wool to make rust....It's the Steel Wool that is being dissolved and it's this rusty gunk that will stain your hardware....Giving a better aged look than just dissolving the plating of your hardware with etching solution as in the videos....or should that be worse....


Oh and the Vaseline....it's great for etching finger prints....


Hope any of this helps....k.j.

Will Kelly of Vintage Guitar Magazine Youtube Page
Axesrus.Com "this is where I got my Bridge from"
RS Guitarworks.Net
RS Aluminum Saddles
RS Brass Saddles on Amazon
Charles Guitars "this is where I got my Aluminum and Brass Saddles from
Billy Gibbon's Glendale Hardware at Charlie Chandler's Guitar Experience
Glendale Guitars.Com
Bare Knuckle Pickups
Gibson 50s Wiring

Hydrogen Peroxide 35% on Amazon


Saturday, 12 April 2014

Tony McKenzie.Com....

Many many moons ago when I first though about getting a TC G-System and was searching the interweb for info on it I came across a site by a guy called Tony McKenzie....


His site is massive and the reviews he does are in-depth bordering on nerdy....and that's a good thing right....if your thinking of spending money on something....you want a review that takes the thing apart and really shows you what your buying....I can't remember the last time I bought a guitar magazine....they give you a page and a half at best and a chopped up video of clip-pits....I want meat and bones and 15 minutes videos so I can really see and hear the thing....Tony looks like he knows his stuff around an amp and that makes his reviews so good....The internet is full of great guitarists nuderling on youtube....but when your about to spend some money you really want a nerd....that's what I try and do....I guess it was Tony's site that made me do this blog....but his site is really how I wish this one would read if I only had the time....


Tony makes a good YouTube video too....This is what you want from a review....and it's only part 1...magazines take note....

Anyway....I was surfing....came across his site again and found myself on his news page....

"Hi guys, firstly some news that relates to my health. I was recently informed that I have prostate cancer. While this is in the earlier stages of the disease it is likely that it will affect the reviews that I will carry out in the shorter term. I will be getting that health problem resolved (hopefully) over the next few months. If for some obscure reason It does not get resolved, then I thank you all for visiting this site and seeing the things I have developed (and of course on my YouTube channel). BTW if you do go there, just click those little thumbs on my channel ;-) as that is always appreciated."

....that was November 2013....I got in touch and Tony is going for an operation next month....1st May 2014....

Tony....I hope it all goes well for your operation and you beat this....the internet would be a bit dimmer without you mate....k.j.

http://www.tonymckenzie.com/index.htm
http://www.youtube.com/user/tonymckenziecom

Friday, 11 April 2014

Living with my Evil Robot C30....Up-Dated....

I've had my Evil Robot for a while now....so what have I found playing it over that time....


It's a aggressive S-O-B in Phil X mode that benefits from a reduction in gain that comes from changing the V1 12AX7 tube for a 12AU7. I have also placed a modded BOSS GE-7 in the C-30's loop to allow me to tweak the EQ....the C-30 has a very focused tone that sounds great with a drummer....but on its own can be a little too much....the GE-7 lets you take the edge off....and that the Vibrato only works with a 12AU7 tube....oh and that the footswitch is rather piss poor....


The C-30's cab is very tightly packed on the inside....changing the speaker for something else is going to be a challenge....I found that the magnet on a Vintage 30 too big to fit in-front of the transforms....To make the fan work better it needs something to channel the air flow upwards....


....and that White Knobs look way more cooler than the standard black one's....in the dark....black on black is really hard to see....


....not that my C-30 needs to stand out more....


My C-30 is mainly for home use and is the best small amp I've ever owned....I have played better amps....but they have all cost 5 times as much so should be better....for the money the C-30 is an outstanding little amp....

Over the weekend I started to hear a harshness in the C-30's tone....the tell tail signs that the power tubes were on their way out....I have been giving the 6L6's in the amp a real pounding and decided to try out EL34's but then found a set of 5881's I have had for years and had never used. 5881 tubes are lower powered 6L6's....6L6's give out a maximum of 30watts....24watts for the 5881....more importantly 5881's will break up earlier than 6L6's. I found that with the 5881 tubes....the C-30 became very clean....too clean with a 12AU7 in the V1 position....


With my C-30 now back in Phil X mode with a 12AX7 in V1 and with the 5881's I found I could drop the gain in the Pre Amp Channels and crank up the Master Volumes giving as near as perfect home low volume tones....the 6L6's staying clean with louder Master Volume levels you have turn up the gain in the Channels thus making standard Evil Robot tones too much for my talents....but with the 5881 power tubes I seem to have found a balance that I can work with....the C-30 still gets loud when you need loud....and now runs a lot cooler than with the 6L6's....which is cool also....k.j.

V1 - 12AX7 - ECC83 - Pre Amp
V2 - 12AX7 - ECC83 - Pre Amp
V3 - 12AU7 - ECC82 - Vibrato
V4 - 12AT7 - ECC81 - Loop
V5 - 12AX7 - ECC83 - Phase Inverter

2x - 5881 - Power Amp Tubes

All tubes are JJ's

***********************************************************************

And so to the Up-Date...."for jojopereira12"

Unfortunately new Sovtek 5881's are not the same as the old ones I had and the Tung-Sol's that I hoped were going to be similar to the old Sovtek's...."Sovtek and Tung-Sol are the same company....Tung-Sol is the name given to their up market tubes"....were a bit disappointing so I have gone back to 6L6's....


I thought I would give a full set of Tung-Sol's a go in the Evil Robot and again a bit disappointing....


Too warm....all the bite had gone....a very nice tone....but not enough top end for my liking....


For the power tubes I have gone for a set of TAD 6L6's....these being the best so far....After a lot of messing again with the tubes I have gone with Tung-Sol's for the channel tubes and JJ's for the rest of the pre amp tubes....the Tung-Sols warmth keeping all the harshness under check with the JJ's keeping the presence and the bite from desapering through the Loop and Phase tubes....


In the Evil's V1 tube I have settled on a Tung-Sol EEC803S Gold Pin 12AX7....now before you say "gold pin bullshit"....the EEC803S has to be the best sounding tube I have ever played through and all of my amps are going to have one fitted....before you buy any other pre amp or power tubes try one of these....this one little tube could very well save you a load of cash....


I'm still using a EQ pedal last inline in the loop to help shape the overall tone....I not boosting or cutting any frequencies massively....just tweaking the EQ more to what I think is sweet sounding....

I have also found using a clean boost....I'm using a Rothwell Atomic Boost....in the loop helps give you a big sounding tone at home friendly volumes....you can get the same tone from using the amps master volume but by the time you have dialed in the same punch and power you have also turned up the amps overall volume and are now playing at a home unfriendly volume....The Clean boost also helps to keep the Evil Robot clean sounding....as you turn up the gain in the pre amp your going to get more break up....more volume and your tone is going to get fuller....using a clean boost your just tuning up the volume and also end up having more control over keeping the amp in the sweet spot at home lowwer volumes....I have always played too loudly at home but with this set up I'm surprised at how quiet I can play and still keep the amp in the sweet spot....


This video is not the best sounding but you can hear what the EQ and Boost pedals are doing....I will re-do the video first chance I get....For home use this set-up is killer....

Tubes I'm using now are....

V1 - Tung-Sol - 12AX7 - ECC803S - Gold Pin - Pre Amp Channel
V2 - Tung-Sol - 12AX7 - ECC83 - Pre Amp Channel
V3 - JJ - 12AU7 - ECC82 - Vibrato
V4 - JJ - 12AX7 - ECC83 - Loop
V5 - JJ - 12AX7 - ECC83 - Phase Inverter

2x - TAD - 6L6WGC-STR - Power Amp Tubes

Remember....I'm using this amp at home....If your going to want to Jam and do Gigs with yours....I would stick to using a quad set of 6V6's....and get yourself an EQ pedal for some extra tone shaping....but before anything else try a Tung-Sol ECC803S Gold Pin tube in V1....Hope this helps....k.j.